Tuesday, December 8, 2015

The Legend of Gosainkunda En

    The Legend of Gosainkunda                                       
Dr. KK Tamang, PhD

It is normal in Nepalese society, rather in Hindu societal families, to hear Gosainkunda fascinating myths associated with Lord Shiva, the destroyer of evildoers. He has many names like Pashupatinath, Bholenath, Mahadev and many more for the Hindus and Lord Guru Bajra, the god of thunder for Buddhists. This deity is highly adored by Hindus and Buddhists alike. His worship by both the kinds of followers is definitely to indicate that He is two-in-one, a tremendous concept of religious philosophy in Nepal. As a matter of fact in addition to that Buddhist legendary beliefs make the co-existing faith and reverence go deeper that help promoting self-understanding and empathy towards the others. This is something very typical of this country known for religious tolerance and peaceful co-existence. So, on this ground Nepal is the land of diversity with humility.
In Hindu mythology once the gods and demons compromised in a mission of joint venture for elixir to churn out from the ocean. Before any nectar unexpectedly there emerged Kalkoot, a poison fluid devastating the surroundings to which Lord Shiva for protection of the earth, creatures and the churners on the ocean gulped it. It was too strong, not bearable and the swallow held on throat darkening made Him feel discomfort. For its remedy His thrust trident on the Himalaya brought cool water to soothe the burning. It is that spot where the episode took place named Gosaikunda.
Gosainkunda literally means the pond belonging to the god. This Himalayan pond, in fact a lake in the mid region of Rasuwa district in Nepal has its unique chapters sounding fantasy to the origin of geographical facts of science. It is a two day drive from Kathmandu off road and tough terrain Himalayan rugged high ups and downs for trekking. It is a spot of adventurous sports for energetic souls. One of the most revered festivals of Nepal is the Gosainkunda festival where the Hindu and Buddhist devotees once taken a bath believe of attaining Mochha, salvation or emancipation from all the sins. This festival falls in the month of Bhadra(Aug- Sep) as called upon as Janai Purnima, (Full moon Day of Janai) the occasion for Janai, the sacred thread worn by Hindu Brahmin(priest) and Chhetri class to rejuvenate and get afresh in lieu of old one put the previous year. Males put Janai cross the shoulder down to opposite hip while females put around wrist Dora, the sacred thread which in course of time they get torn out not to be replaced. The male members take care in keeping Janai intact till next year. Others all non-Brahmins to Chhetris put Dora around wrist reciting hymns in melody tone by Pundit to ward off devils and omens. There are others as well to throng in Gosaikunda for renewal of their yearly routine rituals in worshipping the Guru Bajra. Those who gather for rites do their performance individually not en mass. They go there in belief of getting blessed with boon as that of super Gole Meme (Grandpa). They are sorcerers known in Nepal as Jhakri and some people use loosely the term Lama for them. Indeed Lama is different from Jhakri and quite distinguishable not appropriate at all to mingle.
        Lama means a holy priest knowledgeable in Buddhist philosophy, ism, ideology, ethics and practitioner of principles and teachings of Lord Buddha. In Nepal particular, Tamang, Sherpa, Thakali, Gurung and some other Himalayan region indigenous people practice Buddhism. Cradle to grave they are indoctrinated in Buddhism from genetic character of their forefathers. In order to be a Lama one needs to go through several months to years learning the Buddha teachings under strict disciplinary orders and moral. A Lama has shaven head, long maroon robe and a string of beads in hand rolling with silent hymn of seeking the Buddha. Some families have their third son adopted Lamaism, renouncing worldly affairs but taking celibacy. All the Buddhist faith holders need not embrace celibacy to lead guided life of Buddhism. Household people can be Buddhists as well without refraining from marital status and worldly customs. Even without observing celibacy one can be a Lama. A Lama is priest in service of people and the Buddha what is Maulana, Pundit, Pastor or Gyani to Islam, Hindu, Christian and Sikh respectively. There is no caste hierarchy, apartheid and discrimination in Buddhism and thereby no obligation, any trade to own convenience one can choose.
Definitely, no one can ascertain all the legends concerning Gosainkunda reached to people are all accepted. This saga not an exception associated with Tamang, an ethnic group of Buddhism one of the 125 indigenous people in accordance to the 2011 consensus of Nepal living over mid region high hill belt has quite long history. Gole clique in Tamang clan is a priest class. A Gole flatly declines in getting to Gosainkunda whereas average Nepalese and Hindu would like to visit it unless any exception. It is a myth that the ancestors of Gole clan have made it a taboo for their forthcoming generations. That very location is forbidden for Gole descendants. And in an attempt to reveal the reasons behind so called ban Radha Devi Tamang of the adjacent district Nuwakot opines that Gole hails from the priest family tree called Jhakri (healer/herbal administrator), had a fierce fight in the past with mighty Naag, serpent king that panics them to pay visit to the site even this day.
There is a specific sect named Gole in Tamang community who practice Art of Healing like Vaidya in Hindu and Newar communities of Nepal. Other than herbal treatment also Jhakri uses spiritual influences over ailing beings (humans and even beasts) with garb resembling to deity of the jungle with bird feathers on head gear; gadgets of vest embedded with small bells, coins, conches, glass beads and peacock feathers; hand held one sided flat drum and a stick to produce sound. Many a times Jhakri uses metallic plate in place of drum, smears ash on body, soot on face and turmeric powder on arms giving weird look. Calling by names the deities in chants Gole Jhakri prays to appease the unseen super power with incense, flowers, vermillion, alcohol, fowl eggs, rice, and offerings of delicacies using human skull and ankle bone blowing as horn; accompanied by his dancing and moving of body in rhythm of bells chime and drum beating by his own. Sometimes even in the name of sacrifice animals and birds are made prey to miniature of rice or clay dough made idols decorated with ash, charcoal, wheat four, colored cloth pieces, bamboo ribs, sickles, knifes and utensils; in midst of bonfire. It looks awesome, scaring and funny to some. Tamang before getting to Buddhism practiced Bonn religion and adored the nature what still these days some ethnic people of Rai and Limbu like communities in eastern Nepal sustain the practice. However, these days some Tamang brethrens are seen in different faiths. This is a sort of sorcery which is no more in practice and has been subject to law of the country against witch craft hence discouraged. However Jhakris other than Gole, from other creeds flock there for afore said purpose.
         In age of science believing on hearsay of bloody battle fought in time unknown seems ridiculous. To this an elderly Gole from Ramechhap district Jeet Bahadur Tamang has supportive words for his ancestors to not be deaf eared. It is the moral of one Gole to abide by or not to in the pretext of modernization and education. This scribe belonging to the same kin is obviously not ironical. Kathmanduite 60 years Krishna Kumari Tamang tells Gole Meme lived there long ages before gods could be talked face to face in person. He as said passed his days in worship, rituals and offerings. One day he thinks of making a Gompa, shrine of worship or temple for which he asks Naag in the neighborhood for his assistance. The lake, home to Naag had abundant of rock like materials for construction works to which Naag as a good neighbor accepts the proposal happily. The constructions get motion all the daylong however the next day to be pile of rubbles and debris on the site. All with toil and devotion erected works throughout day found fallen during the night perturbs Gole Meme. How hard he tried his efforts turned futile to find whose mischief was it. Every time a new construction was there the other day it was found sabotaged. Thus the construction and demolition went for some time. At last the hopeless Gole Meme requests Naag for his protection of the construction works in progress. Naag in return of his protection service asks for favor in terms of the sacrifice of Gole Meme and the latter with no choice accepts the proposal but on condition of after the completion of the project.
         Lo! Gole Meme to his surprise finds clues of Naag playing double standard of pretending a philanthropist with donation of construction materials, on the other hand demolishing so far the built ups in late hours of night to take credit of protecting the structures in the day light. And claiming his life for favor, obviously deserved punishment to respond this Gole Meme changes his mind to punish Naag, instead of paying gratitude as the agreement was made. With effect of new contract the site sees rapid development of the construction works. Gole Meme engaged in the overall supervision of the ongoing works declares in no circumstances to see any outsiders. Consequently the progress made through several days and months approaches the finishing. Naag on the other hand looks out for any escape routes from the temple lest Gole Meme tiptoes. Naag coils the temple with his tail sealing all the in and out lets for the busy Gole Meme inside with his head put inside keeping watch over him.
        On the D-day upon completion works of the temple Gole Meme solemnizes the deity idol, frees him from worships, ritual sermons and with spiritual empowerment gained struggles to punish Naag. In the nick of time almost to the end of the fierce fighting of the duo Gole Meme senses someone approaching towards the temple. In a rush to avoid being seen he finds no time enough to execute Naag by swallowing the whole and by sheer chance the tail tip escapes. Eventually the left over butt turns out to be the serpent waiting ample opportune to avenge the defeat not even to spare Gole Meme family line off springs either.
        This sort of saga made home in psychology prevents Gole descendants going to Gosainkunda to encounter unseen wrath of the enraged Naag. Had Gole Meme then succeeded in his act of devouring the monster there would have no snakes on this planet. So far no evidence has ever been tried to excavate from the scene till date.
         To this my personal notion is the story does not however rule out Guru Bajra of being there to safeguard His protégés. His bestowing grace can ward off any untoward happenings what may come. Besides if Naag could wait for any Gole to step in there why not the super Gole Meme's clout protects his generations? (Visitors there very often complain of giddiness and head reeling taking all for the fit of Naag but the truth is high altitude; where oxygen is comparatively low than in plain lands.)

August 5, 2015

Published: (in Nepali version)
Rajadhani National Daily
Year 15, Issue 86, Page 3, Kathmandu
Saturday 30.08.2015

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