The Legend of Gosainkunda
Dr. KK Tamang, PhD
It
is normal in Nepalese society, rather in Hindu societal families, to hear
Gosainkunda fascinating myths associated with Lord Shiva, the destroyer of
evildoers. He has many names like Pashupatinath, Bholenath, Mahadev and many
more for the Hindus and Lord Guru Bajra, the god of thunder for Buddhists. This
deity is highly adored by Hindus and Buddhists alike. His worship by both the
kinds of followers is definitely to indicate that He is two-in-one, a
tremendous concept of religious philosophy in Nepal. As a matter of fact in
addition to that Buddhist legendary beliefs make the co-existing faith and
reverence go deeper that help promoting self-understanding and empathy towards
the others. This is something very typical of this country known for religious
tolerance and peaceful co-existence. So, on this ground Nepal is the land of
diversity with humility.
In Hindu mythology once the gods and demons compromised in a
mission of joint venture for elixir to churn out from the ocean. Before any
nectar unexpectedly there emerged Kalkoot, a poison fluid devastating the
surroundings to which Lord Shiva for protection of the earth, creatures and the
churners on the ocean gulped it. It was too strong, not bearable and the
swallow held on throat darkening made Him feel discomfort. For its remedy His
thrust trident on the Himalaya brought cool water to soothe the burning. It is
that spot where the episode took place named Gosaikunda.
Gosainkunda literally means the pond belonging to the god.
This Himalayan pond, in fact a lake in the mid region of Rasuwa district in
Nepal has its unique chapters sounding fantasy to the origin of geographical
facts of science. It is a two day drive from Kathmandu off road and tough
terrain Himalayan rugged high ups and downs for trekking. It is a spot of
adventurous sports for energetic souls. One of the most revered festivals of
Nepal is the Gosainkunda festival where the Hindu and Buddhist devotees once
taken a bath believe of attaining Mochha, salvation or emancipation from all
the sins. This festival falls in the month of Bhadra(Aug- Sep) as called upon
as Janai Purnima, (Full moon Day of Janai) the occasion for Janai, the sacred
thread worn by Hindu Brahmin(priest) and Chhetri class to rejuvenate and get
afresh in lieu of old one put the previous year. Males put Janai cross the
shoulder down to opposite hip while females put around wrist Dora, the sacred
thread which in course of time they get torn out not to be replaced. The male
members take care in keeping Janai intact till next year. Others all
non-Brahmins to Chhetris put Dora around wrist reciting hymns in melody tone by
Pundit to ward off devils and omens. There are others as well to throng in
Gosaikunda for renewal of their yearly routine rituals in worshipping the Guru
Bajra. Those who gather for rites do their performance individually not en
mass. They go there in belief of getting blessed with boon as that of super
Gole Meme (Grandpa). They are sorcerers known in Nepal as Jhakri and some
people use loosely the term Lama for them. Indeed Lama is different from Jhakri
and quite distinguishable not appropriate at all to mingle.
Lama means a holy priest knowledgeable in Buddhist philosophy, ism, ideology,
ethics and practitioner of principles and teachings of Lord Buddha. In Nepal particular,
Tamang, Sherpa, Thakali, Gurung and some other Himalayan region indigenous
people practice Buddhism. Cradle to grave they are indoctrinated in Buddhism
from genetic character of their forefathers. In order to be a Lama one needs to
go through several months to years learning the Buddha teachings under strict
disciplinary orders and moral. A Lama has shaven head, long maroon robe and a
string of beads in hand rolling with silent hymn of seeking the Buddha. Some
families have their third son adopted Lamaism, renouncing worldly affairs but
taking celibacy. All the Buddhist faith holders need not embrace celibacy to
lead guided life of Buddhism. Household people can be Buddhists as well without
refraining from marital status and worldly customs. Even without observing
celibacy one can be a Lama. A Lama is priest in service of people and the
Buddha what is Maulana, Pundit, Pastor or Gyani to Islam, Hindu, Christian and
Sikh respectively. There is no caste hierarchy, apartheid and discrimination in
Buddhism and thereby no obligation, any trade to own convenience one can
choose.
Definitely, no one can ascertain all the legends concerning
Gosainkunda reached to people are all accepted. This saga not an exception
associated with Tamang, an ethnic group of Buddhism one of the 125 indigenous
people in accordance to the 2011 consensus of Nepal living over mid region high
hill belt has quite long history. Gole clique in Tamang clan is a priest class.
A Gole flatly declines in getting to Gosainkunda whereas average Nepalese and
Hindu would like to visit it unless any exception. It is a myth that the
ancestors of Gole clan have made it a taboo for their forthcoming generations.
That very location is forbidden for Gole descendants. And in an attempt to
reveal the reasons behind so called ban Radha Devi Tamang of the adjacent
district Nuwakot opines that Gole hails from the priest family tree called
Jhakri (healer/herbal administrator), had a fierce fight in the past with
mighty Naag, serpent king that panics them to pay visit to the site even this
day.
There is a specific sect named Gole in Tamang community who
practice Art of Healing like Vaidya in Hindu and Newar communities of Nepal.
Other than herbal treatment also Jhakri uses spiritual influences over ailing
beings (humans and even beasts) with garb resembling to deity of the jungle
with bird feathers on head gear; gadgets of vest embedded with small bells,
coins, conches, glass beads and peacock feathers; hand held one sided flat drum
and a stick to produce sound. Many a times Jhakri uses metallic plate in place
of drum, smears ash on body, soot on face and turmeric powder on arms giving
weird look. Calling by names the deities in chants Gole Jhakri prays to appease
the unseen super power with incense, flowers, vermillion, alcohol, fowl eggs,
rice, and offerings of delicacies using human skull and ankle bone blowing as
horn; accompanied by his dancing and moving of body in rhythm of bells chime
and drum beating by his own. Sometimes even in the name of sacrifice animals
and birds are made prey to miniature of rice or clay dough made idols decorated
with ash, charcoal, wheat four, colored cloth pieces, bamboo ribs, sickles,
knifes and utensils; in midst of bonfire. It looks awesome, scaring and funny
to some. Tamang before getting to Buddhism practiced Bonn religion and adored
the nature what still these days some ethnic people of Rai and Limbu like
communities in eastern Nepal sustain the practice. However, these days some
Tamang brethrens are seen in different faiths. This is a sort of sorcery which
is no more in practice and has been subject to law of the country against witch
craft hence discouraged. However Jhakris other than Gole, from other creeds
flock there for afore said purpose.
In age of science believing on hearsay of bloody battle fought in time unknown
seems ridiculous. To this an elderly Gole from Ramechhap district Jeet Bahadur
Tamang has supportive words for his ancestors to not be deaf eared. It is the
moral of one Gole to abide by or not to in the pretext of modernization and
education. This scribe belonging to the same kin is obviously not ironical.
Kathmanduite 60 years Krishna Kumari Tamang tells Gole Meme lived there long
ages before gods could be talked face to face in person. He as said passed his
days in worship, rituals and offerings. One day he thinks of making a Gompa,
shrine of worship or temple for which he asks Naag in the neighborhood for his
assistance. The lake, home to Naag had abundant of rock like materials for
construction works to which Naag as a good neighbor accepts the proposal
happily. The constructions get motion all the daylong however the next day to
be pile of rubbles and debris on the site. All with toil and devotion erected
works throughout day found fallen during the night perturbs Gole Meme. How hard
he tried his efforts turned futile to find whose mischief was it. Every time a
new construction was there the other day it was found sabotaged. Thus the
construction and demolition went for some time. At last the hopeless Gole Meme
requests Naag for his protection of the construction works in progress. Naag in
return of his protection service asks for favor in terms of the sacrifice of
Gole Meme and the latter with no choice accepts the proposal but on condition
of after the completion of the project.
Lo! Gole Meme to his surprise finds clues of Naag playing double standard of
pretending a philanthropist with donation of construction materials, on the
other hand demolishing so far the built ups in late hours of night to take
credit of protecting the structures in the day light. And claiming his life for
favor, obviously deserved punishment to respond this Gole Meme changes his mind
to punish Naag, instead of paying gratitude as the agreement was made. With effect
of new contract the site sees rapid development of the construction works. Gole
Meme engaged in the overall supervision of the ongoing works declares in no
circumstances to see any outsiders. Consequently the progress made through
several days and months approaches the finishing. Naag on the other hand looks
out for any escape routes from the temple lest Gole Meme tiptoes. Naag coils
the temple with his tail sealing all the in and out lets for the busy Gole Meme
inside with his head put inside keeping watch over him.
On the D-day upon completion works of the temple Gole Meme solemnizes the deity
idol, frees him from worships, ritual sermons and with spiritual empowerment
gained struggles to punish Naag. In the nick of time almost to the end of the fierce
fighting of the duo Gole Meme senses someone approaching towards the temple. In
a rush to avoid being seen he finds no time enough to execute Naag by
swallowing the whole and by sheer chance the tail tip escapes. Eventually the
left over butt turns out to be the serpent waiting ample opportune to avenge
the defeat not even to spare Gole Meme family line off springs either.
This sort of saga made home in psychology prevents Gole descendants going to
Gosainkunda to encounter unseen wrath of the enraged Naag. Had Gole Meme then
succeeded in his act of devouring the monster there would have no snakes on
this planet. So far no evidence has ever been tried to excavate from the scene
till date.
To this my personal notion is the story does not however rule out Guru Bajra of
being there to safeguard His protégés. His bestowing grace can ward off any
untoward happenings what may come. Besides if Naag could wait for any Gole to
step in there why not the super Gole Meme's clout protects his generations?
(Visitors there very often complain of giddiness and head reeling taking all
for the fit of Naag but the truth is high altitude; where oxygen is
comparatively low than in plain lands.)
August 5, 2015
Published: (in Nepali version)
Rajadhani National Daily
Year 15, Issue 86, Page 3,
Kathmandu
Saturday 30.08.2015
